Rashtrapati Bhavan
Viceroy's House
Lutyens's 340-room residence on Raisina Hill, where a Buddhist dome sits on a classical drum.
Lutyens wanted a British classical building; his Indian setting kept insisting otherwise, and the compromise is the most interesting thing about the house. The great dome is modelled on the Sanchi stupa, complete with a stone railing; the roofline carries chhatris; deep chhajja cornices throw the shadow line that makes the facade legible in Delhi's flat glare. Underneath all of it is a Palladian plan of impeccable severity.
The numbers are famous — 340 rooms, 227 columns, 700 million bricks — but the building's real subject is approach. The whole ceremonial axis exists to deliver you up Raisina Hill, and Lutyens's row with Herbert Baker over the gradient of that slope, which sinks the facade out of view as you climb, was the great architectural quarrel of the Raj. Since 1950 the house has belonged to the Republic's President, and the gardens behind it, now Amrit Udyan, open to the public each spring.
- 01The Sanchi domeA Buddhist stupa form set on a European drum — the empire's architecture arguing with itself.
- 02Durbar HallA circular hall of coloured marble directly beneath the dome, used for state investitures.
- 03Amrit UdyanThe terraced Mughal-plan gardens, open to visitors for a season each year.
Interior and garden circuits must be booked online in advance and carry photo-ID checks. The forecourt Change of Guard is free to watch on Saturdays.